Scandinavia is famous for its pared-back, androgynous aesthetic, seen in the spare lines and stark palettes of fashion labels Acne and Filippa K, in the architecture of Snøhetta and furniture designs of the late Hans Wegner. But Copenhagen’s fashion designers are a different breed. Stalwarts like Baum und Pferdgarten, as well as Instagram-savvy newcomers like Ganni and Saks Potts, champion a freer, fun and glamorous aesthetic. Like the Finnish brand Marimekko, they embrace colour and print, approaching fashion with pragmatism and humour. As one fashion publicist explained: “Denmark is like the Italy of Scandinavia.”

As Denmark’s cultural influence grows, the Copenhagen girl could soon supplant the Parisian girl as the symbol of international chic: one who joyfully and effortlessly layers ruffled dresses over T-shirts, jeans and a pair of sensible – and often colourful – flat sandals or trainers. More than half of the city’s residents cycle, so practicality is at the forefront. “Copenhagen girls are really good at mixing, at wearing a beautiful dress with long sleeves and riding our bikes to school or to work or wherever,” says Ganni’s Ditte Reffstrup, herself the quintessential Copenhagen girl.

Last week, designers, models and an increasingly international coterie of buyers press gathered in Copenhagen for three days to discover what Denmark has in store for the spring/summer 2018 season, spread across two large trade shows (CIFF and Revolver) and runway shows held at venues ranging from warehouses to bridges. Here are the highlights from the Danish capital.

An up-and-comer in London’s menswear scene, last season Astrid Andersen returned to her native Denmark to debut her eponymous womenswear label. “You know, there is a lot of pressure when I do menswear in London,” she told Vogue backstage. “There’s pressure here as well, but it's a soft way to launch something for me.” Last season’s sport, grunge and streetwear-inspired silhouettes were given a spring refresh in stiff striped cotton, dark crushed velvet, and unexpectedly, a silky blue floral print – the latter of which suggested a promising new direction for the designer.

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